The Mather Peak
Adventure Part II
So begins the second installment of my adventure from Circle Park to the top of Mather Peak in the Big Horn Mountains.
Boulder fields forever |
After that night scrambling amongst the
boulders in the dark, and pitching tent at 10,500 feet next to Lake Angeline, I
finally crawled into my sleeping bag. Here, my grip on sleep was tenuous at
best.
The icy wind swooped over the
mountains, rattling the tent fabric, making the floor undulate up and down.
Even in the sleeping bag, I was so cold that I ended up doing plyometric
exercises for warmth. I curled into a fetus and waited for sleep to come.
Sleep came, but it left around 1 a.m..
A particularly strong gust hit the side of the tent and woke me up with a full
bladder.
I staggered out for a windy piss in the
cold, then dove back into my shelter.
What dreams would come involved me
staggering around on top of mountains and interviewing Buffalo politicians for
some news assignment that I didn’t understand. I woke up again at 4 a.m. and
then at 6.
This time, I could pick up a faint glow
coming through the walls of my tent. I looked outside in my imagination,
picturing the spectacular first rays of morning striking the snow on the peaks
above, the glacier too, descending the stairway from heaven until at last I was
in the light and in the warmth.
It wasn’t particularly warm in the
world though. A scene of uncommon beauty may have been unfolding outside, but
all my animal instincts told me I should stay put, curled snug within the snug
cocoon of heat. Nor was the sound of the wind against my walls particularly
inviting.
Oh hell! I didn’t come out here to be
comfortable. I flung myself from the tent and looked at the world around.
Deep pink-orange light flooded the
ledges on the other side of the lake and the glacier. The waters were still
dark, a deep blue like the ocean. The wind had stirred up small whitecaps, even
though there couldn’t have been more than half a mile’s worth of fetch.
Any gripes that I could have with the
discomforts of the previous night, seemed petty now.
People could wait a lifetime to see
this. It was just an obscure lake on the map, another day in the Big Horns.
Tent pitched alongside Lake Angeline |
There was plenty of challenge ahead though and not much time
for complacency. Two weeks ago, I had left for the summit of Cloud Peak at 4:45 a.m.. It was about an hour and a half later than that, and arguably I had an even harder hike in front of me. I went to the lakeshore and gathered up
some water for my oatmeal. A hot meal would fortify me against this chill.
Unfortunately, my lighter had other plans. It was completely shot.
Yesterday it had worked beautifully lighting the stove for pasta. Now I was eating cold oatmeal yet again. Some things never change.
Unfortunately, my lighter had other plans. It was completely shot.
Yesterday it had worked beautifully lighting the stove for pasta. Now I was eating cold oatmeal yet again. Some things never change.
The summit of Mather Peak is 12,348
feet, leaving me about 2,000 feet of gain to cover in about three and a half
miles. No biggie right?
What I was going to find out was that
those miles were going to be a lot more taxing than the average trail hike Not
only would I be navigating by compass, I would also have to contend with
boulders everywhere.
Admittedly, I love rock hopping, and
get a thrill out of bounding from one to another. It’s great exercise too.
Coming from back east though, this part
of the hike is usually the icing on the cake. Big boulder fields tend to lie
above tree-line, so on a 5,000-foot New Hampshire mountain, that means that you
will get about a half mile of pure rock scrambling.
This hike however, I was starting at
10,500 feet, already well above tree line and in the place where winter ice
breaks the exposed bedrock into crazy piles of rocks that range in size from
softball to SUV. To cross this lawless realm, would require me to spend
the next hours, hopping from point to point, putting my feet in weird angles
and scrambling up and down boulders.
In this kind of funky situation, a
hiking pole is an indispensable resource, allowing me to pivot, catch myself
from slipping and keep my forward momentum.
I left camp and started up the first
ridge, moving fast to get some warmth up. The lake fell away and I got up
closer to the glacier.
On the other side of the ridge, a
particularly terrifying glacier dropped straight down at the corner of two
rocky cliffs. About 20 feet of it jutted out in an icy platform over the Seven
Brothers Lakes to the east. Those with a low sense of self-preservation could
walk or crawl out to the edge and look straight down perhaps 50 stories or more
of drop.
Fortunately, I could stay well clear of
these icy segments. The rocks kept me plenty busy.
I had an internal goal to reach the
summit by 11, imagining that it would leave enough leeway for me to get back to
my car in Circle Park by dark.
I ended up getting to the main peak
around 11:30 and then killing some more time getting over to a sister summit.
As long as I navigated a more efficient route on the way back, I figured I
should be okay.
As I hopped from one boulder to another, and scrambled up and down others, it was a tricky business keeping a straight line. Nor was it really worth the effort. It was far better to give in to the topographic whimsy of the landscape, to try to find the twisted path that worked the best over the senseless jumble of broken rock.
This is part of what makes rock-hopping
fun to me. You are always in a puzzle, but there are an infinite number of
correct places to put your feet down, no need to get bogged down in the boredom
of knowing exactly which way to go.
It was as much a mental exercise as a
physical one. Over time, the game slowly morphed from a fun pastime into
knee-jarring tedium. Scrambling at the high altitude cut my energy a bit.
Compounding it all, there was the fact that many large, seemingly stable rocks
had a tendency to slide, tilt dangerously or else fall away completely, dumping
the hapless hiker along with them.
Ere I reached the summit, my ankles had suffered the abuse of many a treacherous stone.
The top of Mather Peak was marked,
appropriately enough, by a pile of rocks. Someone had left a steel strongbox
next to it and I wrenched it open to find a logbook. A few hikers from previous
years had left entries on the soft pages, though there was no record of any
other 2012 ascent. Whether this is because nobody else has been up there this
year, or the more likely answer, that no one bothered opening that box
recently, I can’t tell you.
I added my own name and sealed it back
up again.
The view was indeed
spectacular: miles of mountain lakes and glaciers, sprawled out under the azure
sky. To the north I saw Bomber Mountain rising in a steep-sided bulk of cliffs
and ridges. Beyond that stood Cloud Peak, my second most recent ascent in this
range. About 15 miles to the south, I saw the green slopes of the Meadowlark
Ski Resort.
Cloud Peak in the distance, with Bomber Mountain in the foreground |
I had two liters worth of water
starting out. Hiking in the dry, thin air I was going to need a refill. I
scraped some snow off of one of the glaciers and put it into one of the half
full bottles. It wasn’t much, and the snow, which looked so pure and white from
a distance was actually quite dirty.
The ice was melting steadily under the
sun, but there was no way to get to the water, because it immediately trickled
beneath the rocks. I could hear streams of it rushing beneath my boots,
completely out of reach. After some work, I moved a couple of rocks and put one
of my bottles under the trickle, letting it fill.
Getting back to the tent was a tough
and I took an inevitable tumble when the rocks shifted underfoot. It was
getting toward 3 p.m. when I spied the tent far below from my vantage point on
the ridge.
As I began the descent, a stone went
loose under my boot, dropped me, and flung me around violently into a boulder.
Since I was wearing my camera on a strap, it caught the brunt of my inertia,
transferring the kinetic energy to a small area of my ribcage.
When I got my wind
back, I spent it out in a string of profanity.
My camera is more resilient than I am
apparently; it seemed none the worse the wear, happily clicking pictures for me
for the rest of the trip. My ribs, of course, hurt like a mother. The rest of
the day, I got to feel a jot of pain every time I took a deep breath.
Back at the tent, I
refilled my water bottles and took the tent down. I still had miles to go to
get to the car, and I preferred to cover them before nightfall.
I steered around the tall ridge on the
way to Willow Lake. All the time, I was playing the opposite of the Hot Lava
game we learn as kids. At all costs, I tried to stick to places where there was
dirt or shrubs. I was burnt out on the rock hopping. As the trees filled in
again, there were only slightly fewer boulders, and more dead trees to hop and
thickets to cut through.
The sun was low in the sky by the time
that I got to Willow Lake.
What a relief it was to get back on
trails, free of the responsibility to choose my own path. Tired as I was, I
managed to jog the flat sections
of trail and avoid the dark.
The old, trusty
Mazda waited in the parking lot, ready to convey me across the miles of road
back to Gillette.
Back at Lake Angeline later in the day |